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Bantam silver laced Cochins and solid Black cochin pullets $25.
Silkies up to 2-8 weeks $25-30. Lots available in paint, black, red, partridge, buff, splash, white and cuckoo.
Mille Fleur d'Uccle laying hens $50 each. Take a rooster with hen and I will reduce the price.
Available after 10am on weekends and after 4:30 on weekdays.
I am not available early mornings. I do not deliver nor meet halfway. I am in Gilbert on Greenfield and Pecos.
All silkie chicks are sold as straight run (gender unknown), as silkies cannot be sexed until they are about 5 months old.
All pictures in the gallery are from MY STOCK. These are NOT GOOGLE IMAGES. Adults in the pictures are NOT FOR SALE. I DON'T SELL HENS or hatching eggs. Chicks and juveniles go quickly, so gender cannot be identified. All are straight run.
Please bring a small box with shavings for transport.
About my Silkie chickens:
My Bantam Silkies are bred to standards and separated by color and genetics. They all will have beards and muffs. Feathering on feet is heavy and extends to most toes.
My Silkie parent stock (hens and roosters) have been hand selected to increase the size of muffs and the crest on top of their heads (the poof). Parent stock was hatched, by me, from NPIP eggs that I have had shipped from all over the United States. Most of my Silkies come from show lines. That does not mean all chicks will be show quality. I have 11 years of selective breeding that has gone into my breeding stock, and they are not for sale.
Please see the ad pictures for examples of my past chicks, some of my juveniles, and adult Silkies. The pictures provided are of my actual chickens, not Google photos. I do not take individual pictures of hatches, because I have several incubators hatching a week and taking pictures is a time-consuming job. Each hatch will have chicks that look the same as past chicks already seen in the pictures. LOOK at the pictures in the post for examples of the chicks that I have on a weekly basis. Parents and juveniles from pictures are NOT for sale. I DO NOT sell my laying hens.
I usually have juvenile and adult ROOSTERS (not hens) for sale. Prices range from free to $25 on roosters (price depends on color and quality). Please inquire if interested in roosters. Paint Roosters are always $25. Current roosters on hand for sale are paint (2), pure black from paint (2), red, and partridge. Partridge and red roos are currently free, as I have a lot available. All are young. Some are crowing.
Cash or Venmo payments only. I am no longer taking Zelle or PayPal. Chicks do not do well alone, so plan on getting at least 2 if you don't have newborn chicks at home. You should not put newborn silkie chicks in with any full-size breed of chick that is older than 1 week. They will trample newborn silkies. It is always a risk putting silkies with other chicks of unknown origins.
I practice biosecurity with my flock. This is for the protection of your chickens and mine, so please wear CLEAN shoes and clothes NOT worn in your coops. Please let me know if you have had any illness or death of your chickens in the last 3 months. You will be asked to put on disposable foot booties when you arrive.
-For Bio security, please DO NOT bring your pet chickens with you when you pick up. I will not allow you to see my chickens if you do. No exceptions.
Questions and Answers:
I often get asked these questions, so I have included this section of frequently asked questions. I get a lot of emails each day, so I only answer email questions about stock on hand and times that I am available. Sorry, I don't have time to answer email questions about general care in email inquiries. Hopefully your answers can be found in the information below. If not, Google is always willing to help. This information is simply my opinion. I am not a vet. You are welcome to Google your own information or go on trial and error. This information has worked for me in raising my flock to keep them healthy and safe. Once you are here, I will be happy to answer any other questions that you have but will not do so through email inquiries.
What do I put my chicks in for travel? Answer: If you are traveling from more than 30 minutes away, I suggest getting an old sock, filling with dry/uncooked rice, and I will heat it in the microwave when you get here. This should keep your babies warm until you get home. SMALL boxes with shavings are best for transport. Dog/puppy, rabbit/bunny, and cat carriers are too big for newborn chicks and could potentially cause harm to newborns, but rat, reptile, or other small animal carriers will work. A "standing room only" box is best for newborns. If you are coming for roosters, please consider their size and need for headroom when choosing a box. Pet carriers will work for older chickens.
What should I feed my chicks? Answer: Medicated chick starter is good practice so that chicks don't get coccidiosis. This will give their bodies a fighting chance to become immune to these bacteria that are found everywhere in our soil and in chicken feces. This is especially important if you already have chickens, have chicks obtained from other places (especially feed stores or hatcheries), or live in an area where wild birds have access to the same ground where you plan to put your chickens. Coccidiosis can live in the soil for 4 years. The time to go organic is when you are eating the eggs and AFTER chickens have gained immunity to these potentially deadly bacteria. Chicks need to become immune to coccidiosis and should be fed medicated feed, which helps them gain immunity (again, my opinion). You should always feed a high-quality food to raise up your flock. Nutrena and Purina have excellent products. It has been my experience that Manna Pro, Producers Pride, and Dumar feeds do not offer enough vitamins and protein for silkie chicks and adults and should be avoided. These brands are cheap budget foods, and you get what you pay for. Silkies need a quality feed.
What heat source do I need? Answer: You can use a heat lamp, but silkies do better with a brooder heater in the summer. It is safer, does not cause overheating of chicks, and is not a fire hazard. I use Producers Pride from Tractor Supply. It is the cheapest, allows for the most chicks, and doubles as a coop heater when it is no longer needed in the brooder. If you choose to go with a heat lamp, the brooder needs to be large enough (3 feet by 2 feet) so that chicks can get completely out of the heat. Brooders with high sides will trap heat, so make sure that you take the temp of the surrounding area to be sure that there is an area with no heat. Chicks need 95 degrees the first week of life. Be sure the heat source is not warmer than that. Your body temperature is 98.6, so a heat lamp placed at the proper level should not be hot when your hand is placed on the ground under it. The chicks will move away from the heat if they need to, providing your brooder is large enough. Chicks kept indoors need a heat source as well (even in the summer).
What should I put in my brooder and what size should it be? Answer: Your brooder should be AT LEAST 36" long by 24" wide. A heat lamp heats a large area and chicks need to be able to completely get out of the heat. Brooders should not be made of cardboard, as they are a fire hazard. Natural wood shavings or pellets (no cedar) should line your brooder. Silkies are fragile and splayed legs can occur if the chicks slip during travel or in brooder. Brooders should have a small feeder with holes in it. Open containers are not advised beyond day 3, because chicks hop in them and poop in the food. This can cause illnesses (like coccidiosis). Chick sized water containers should be used to prevent drowning. DO NOT USE ADULT SIZE chicken waterers or dog bowls, as they are drowning hazards. Once chicks are 2 weeks old, water and food containers should be raised to prevent shavings from getting kicked into them. Shavings contain poop, so you don't want it in your water containers. Change water regularly so that it is always clean. Always keep brooders clean. Use a RED heat lamp light so as not to interrupt the sleep cycle of chicks. You CANNOT use household light bulbs. Brooders do not need to be expensive cages. Look around your house for large plastic storage tubs (see size above), horse water metal tubs, rabbit cages, etc. You can even use Xl wire dog kennels or kennels used for puppies if you put cardboard or chicken wire halfway up on the sides so that chicks cannot squeeze through the sides.
At what age should I switch over to layer pellet? If you have roosters and layers, you should not feed layer pellet. It contains calcium that roosters should not have. Flock raiser is a better alternative. Free fed oyster shells and grit should also be available at all times for layers when feeding flock raiser. Flock raiser does not contain these much-needed items. Your hens will free eat the grit and calcium when their bodies need it. Flock raiser can be fed any time after 18 weeks. If your flock does not have roosters, layer pellet can be given at that time.
Can I put silkies with my existing flock? Answer: Yes, but new members need to be slowly introduced where old members can SEE them, but NOT harm them. Your existing flock will see the new chickens as intruders. Silkies should not be introduced to an existing flock until they are 5 months old when their immune systems are stronger. Barnyard hens can be aggressive, and introduction should not be rushed. If you have ground that has been exposed to previous chickens or wild birds, I recommend using Corid at the prevention rate or medicated chick starter to prevent the new flock from getting coccidiosis when introducing to existing flock and vice versa. Feed vitamins and probiotics in water after Corid treatment. Again, this is my personal opinion, but I (and many others) have learned this the hard way. Coccidiosis kills in 48 hours. By the time you realize something is wrong, it is usually too late. Do your homework and decide what works for you...
When can Silkies be put outside without a heat source? Answer (in cold weather): When they are fully feathered including neck and head. Even then, when given the choice to be near heat, they will use it, on cold nights. Summer temps outside are warm enough during the day for chicks to be without a heat source. Newborns will still need a heat source if night temps drop below 95. Chicks inside will need a heat source (even in summer).
Why does my chick have a pasty bottom? Answer: Pasting up is a sign of stress. Newborns are fragile and stress can cause the vent to get pasted over with poop. This must be cleaned ASAP with warm water. Gently rub the area with warm water, without soaking the chick. Don't pull the poop off as this can cause damage to the vent and/or rip out sensitive feathers. Towel dry the bottom and return to heat source. Chicks can die if this is not cleared. Pasty bottom can also be caused from stress from traveling to a new home, improper brooder temps, and too much handling. Have your brooder all set up, in advance, at home. Chicks sitting in a car while you shop for brooder items and food will cause stress and possible death. Loud chirping is also a sign of stress in silkies (cold, hot, scared, etc). Vitamins and electrolytes can be fed in water to help with stress and pasty bottoms. Tractor Supply, Shoppers, and Amazon sell this. It's a good idea to have vitamins and electrolytes on hand, before you need them. All silkies (chicks and adults) need these throughout the summer. I feed vitamins, probiotics, and electrolytes in the water once a week all year long. Chicks who are climbing under one another or on top of each other are cold. Chicks that are smashed up against the side of the brooder (opposite the heat lamp) are too hot, which usually means your brooder is too small.
Do you take back roosters? Answer: No, I have a closed flock and do not take in outsiders of any kind. Even if your roosters came from my chicks, they have been away from my farm and have potentially been exposed to one of the many bird diseases out there.
I have daily inquiries about roosters, so they are not difficult to re-home. Feed stores will often take them in if they have the room too. It is better to purchase more chicks than what you want to end up with. Often times you cannot tell gender until about 5 months. It is easier to sell roosters later than it is to start over with more chicks, to get the number of hens you want. An average hatch is 60% roosters.
Again, all above information is my opinion and experience from raising silkie chickens for the last 12 years. I am not a vet and am not giving any medical advice.
Happy chicken raising!
Please note that I do not sell hatching eggs. I hatch all eggs that my girls lay.
I do sell:
Bucket feeders
Corid
Chicken vitamins and Electrolytes
Check out my Facebook for more pictures of my flock and what's available:
Arizona Fluffybutt Silkie Chickens
